She often referred to her simple black dresses and their versatility, and regularly wore black herself. Black In Fashion. 87, (May 5, 1937): 3. Shoe Hat, 1937-38. Elsa Schiaparelli created this unusual lobster dress with the help of Surrealist artist Salvador Dali in 1937, demonstrating the interconnected nature of the fashion and art worlds in the early 20th century. EVENING DRESS, embroidered silk crépe Many of her clients were women who did not possess the accepted standard of beauty, but rather a more striking sort of chic, such as the Duchess of Windsor and Millicent Rogers, and Schiaparelli's artistic designs were perfectly suited to assist in developing their particular versions of style and beauty. In The Little Book of Schiaparelli, Emma Baxter-Wright describes that “Dali’s famous lobster print appeared as the focus of attention, positioned provocatively on a simple white evening dress with little other decoration to distract” (74). Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Mrs. Edward G. Sparrow, 1969, Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection (7,936). Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) enjoyed the enormous publicity that her more bizarre creations generated, but her less provocative designs rarely caused a furore and have been somewhat neglected. 1 - Elsa Schiaparelli (Italian, 1890-1973). Schiaparelli was one of the first designers to develop the wrap dress, taking inspiration from aprons to produce a design that would accommodate and flatter all female body types. As the unlovely caterpillar morphs into the brilliant colorful butterfly, so Schiaparelli's designs could transform the ordinary into the extraordinary. Women’s Wear Daily dedicated an article of its own to the garments Wallis Simpson selected to purchase from Elsa Schiaparelli’s collection, which includes the Lobster dress at far right (Fig. Lobster Telephone, 1936. 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Printed silk organza and synthetic horsehair. Starting with knitwear, Schiaparelli's designs were heavily influenced by Surrealists like her collaborators Salvador Dalí and Alberto Giacometti. Getty Images. Purchased at Christie's (Grant-in-Aid) 1981. Global shipping available. Fig. See also a series of sketches from Schiaparelli that appeared in Vogue 1937 that includes this famous dress, simply titled ‘Lobster’ (Fig. Source: Time, Fig. 5 - Salvador Dali (Spanish, 1904-1989). Printed silk organza and synthetic horsehair. Buttons may also have been incorporated into this early version. Cole and Deihl discuss how “Neoclassical styles were the prevailing mode early in the decade; white and ivory columnar bias cut evening dresses” were popular, along with asymmetry, but “later in the decade, bold graphic trims were applied, and symmetry was once again common” (163-4). Schiaparelli drew on her friendship with Spanish artist Salvador Dalí to create this in 1937 in the midst of the Surrealist art movement. Posted by Celestial Rubenstein | Last updated Jan 13, 2020 | Published on Jan 8, 2020 | 1930-1939, 20th century, garment analysis. The dress is an off-white, A-line evening gown with a sheer coral inset below the bust that creates a slight empire-waist silhouette. The dress is floor length and has a high round neck with a small central slip at the centre front, and the neck dips to a waist length 'V' flanked by pleats at the centre back. Elsa Schiaparelli (Italian, 1890–1973), Credit Line: 1) (Blum 135). Schiaparelli shared many Surrealist views with these artists and often used her designs as a means to express these views. Unlined. Woman's Dinner dress, February 1937. Along with Coco Chanel, her greatest rival, she is regarded as one of the most prominent figures in fashion between the two World Wars. French, Paris, Schiaparelli, Autumn 1940, Schiaparelli designed clothes that were almost theatrical in their impact. London: Tate, T03257. Evening dress of embroidered black silk crêpe. Its lobster is just as soft and surreal as the original, but made of appliqué, and it occupies the same pride of place on the skirt. The sleeves are small and slightly gathered into the shoulder. 89, Iss. The Life of Elsa - Discover the House of Schiaparelli‘s latest collections, news and history. Writted in ink on the back of the printed label, Length: 148.5 cm, Width: 74.5 cm, Circumference: 890 mm, Circumference: 710 mm, Width: 381 mm, Evening dress of embroidered silk crêpe with pearls, sequins and metal strip, designed by Elsa Schiaparelli, Paris, 1940. Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Mrs. Edward G. Sparrow, 1969, Accession Number: All rights reserved. Elsa Schiaparelli, born 1890 - died 1973 (designer), Embroidered silk crêpe, pearls, sequins, metal strip, plastic. Her autobiography "Shocking Life" often refers to her black dresses... "I had designed a very plain black dress typically Schiap, a dress that was high in the neck and could be worn at the office and at the theatre, the sort of dress I wear all day myself." Gift of Mme Elsa Schiaparelli, 1969. Source: PMA. Scroll left to view more. This artwork is meant to be viewed from right to left. Journal 8). Her design, which first appeared in 1930, offered a two-sided model with armholes on each side, brought together in the front of the garment and wrapped and tied at the waistline. ", Worn and given by Madame Elsa Schiaparelli Many of her fashion contributions included collaborations with several Surrealist artists with results similar to this stand-out gown. If you have suggestions or corrections, please contact us.
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